Llandeilo Past and Present

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Concise History of Llandeilo - Part 3

from Llandeilo

by Eirwen Jones, 1984

Early History

14th century

The first[reference to Llandeilo Fawr and Dinefwr is in Liber Landavensis, a compilation of deeds, documents, bills and letters concerning the diocese of Llandaff dating back to circa 1132. The boundaries of Llandeilo Fawr are given in Welsh, Old Welsh.

Geographically, Llandeilo Fawr was divided into seven commotes -- Manordeilo, Mabelfyw (district of Llanybydder); Pencader; Llanwrda to Cilycwm; Llanegwad-Llanfynydd-Llangathen; and Carmarthen-Abergwili-Nantgaredig and Conwil.

The Book of Llandaff gives a description of the parish of Llandeilo Fawr. There is a record of a dispute between the Bishops of Llandaff and of St. Davids for the possession of the parish church. A survey of the diocese compiled by the Chancellor of St. Davids in 1326 gives particulars of Llandeilo Fawr and of Llandyfeisant. The names of the jurors who gave information to Chancellor David Francis are recorded. The bishop had, at that time, the privilege of a fair to be held once a year on the feast of St. Barnabas the Apostle, that is, on June 11th. It lasted three days and the tolls and perquisites were worth twelve pence. A market was held every Saturday. The two institutions continued for centuries. The fair was known as "Ffair Gwyl Barna" [The Fair of the Festival of Barnabas]. It was held on June 11th; later, it was held on June 21st. The reason for the change of date was due to the loss of eleven days at the time of the reform of the calendar by Henry Pelham in 1752 when the Gregorian or continental calendar was substituted for the old Julian calendar.

The house of Dinefwr

The inhabitants of the town were the tenants of the Bishop and not of the lord of Dinefwr Castle. A distinction is recorded between the ville or villa of Llandeilo and the patria of Llandeilo, the country round about it.

Services to be rendered by the tenants to the bishop were varied. Among other dues they had to guard prisoners arrested in the area and escort them to Llangadog or to Llanegwad where they would be taken over by men dwelling in those places.

These services and dues were sacrosanct. Between the years 1218 and 1651 there was a long-standing and acrimonious dispute between Llandeilo and Dinefwr Castle concerning the supply of beer by the former to the latter.

Times were troublesome. In 1213 in the First Battle of Llandeilo, Rhys Ieuanc [Rhys the Younger] and his brother, Owen, gained possession of Dinefwr Castle from their uncle, Rhys Gryg [Rhys the Hoarse], who, in his retreat, burnt the town. Warfare was continuous. In 1257 there occurred the Second Battle of Llandeilo. A Norman army came from Carmarthen. It was defeated by the Welsh with the loss of 2,000 men. In 1295 Edward I during one of his campaigns in Wales camped at Cilsane. The area was in royal favour in 1363; the Black Prince granted a charter to Newtown (i.e. Y Dre Newydd) near Dynevor Castle. King Richard II confirmed this in 1394. In 1403 Owen Glyndwr passed through the town and burnt it to the ground. It was a particularly fierce campaign and it is recorded that the English Constables at Dynevor Castle and at Carreg Cennen Castle were very frightened. The feudal system prevailed and there was strong loyalty to the local barons. In 1485 the tenants of Sir Rhys ap Thomas joined him in the march to Bosworth.

The history of the House of Dynevor or Dinefwr is largely that of Welsh resistance to Norman power. There was also internecine war due to family feuds, intricacies of land tenure based on gavel-kind and traditional hatred to English, Flemish and Norman immigrants - "Y dynion dwad".

The family of Dynevor traces its descent from Urien, the King of Reged, ruler over territory extending between the valleys of Neath and Tywi and including the cantrefs of Gower, Carnwallon and Kidwelly.

In 1072, Rhys ab Owen, grandson of Hywel Dda, successfully claimed the sovereignty of the House of Dinefwr. Internecine war was waged among the Welsh princes for decades. With the accession of Henry II in 1154 Lord Rhys returned to his domains. War broke out again and the succeeding years were records of battles, skirmishes, triumphs and raids of vengeance.

The Lord Rhys was a leading figure in Wales. Though most of his life was spent in warfare, he is honoured as a sound administrator and as a patron of Welsh culture. His name is associated with the establishing of the tradition of a National Eisteddfod and festival at Cardigan.

Sir Rhys ab Thomas

At the close of the 15th century, Sir Rhys ab Thomas of the House of Dinefwr led a powerful army from West Wales to Bosworth in Leicestershire. He rode his famous war-horse, Ceffyl Du Y Bacsey. In the battle King Richard III was defeated. Tradition maintains that he was slain by the hand of a Welsh nobleman. Then Time held its breath for many moments. Would the powerful baron, Sir Rhys, place the Crown (hidden conveniently in a nearby bush) - would he place it on his own head? Wisdom prevailed. Henry, Duke of Richmond, was proclaimed King Henry VII and the dynastic house of Tudor was established.

The monarch confirmed the possession of Dinefwr Castle to the loyal baron. King Henry VIII regained possession of the estate for the Crown. In later years it reverted to the family of Dynevor who have remained in possession to the present time. The present Lord Dynevor is a direct descendant of the ancient and illustrious family.

Dynevor Castle

Dynevor Castle is situated on a rock above the river Towy. The modern castle is nearby. The old castle was built by the princes of Deheubarth as their principal residence. The keep, the towers, apartments and stairways remain. Plans are being made for the restoration of the old fortress.

Dynevor Park

Dynevor Park is an area of exceptional beauty. A herd of ancient white cattle grazed there. There was a tradition of sending one of the ravens of Dynevor to the Tower of London when one of the ravens there died. Scottish fir trees were planted on the park to commemorate the Jacobite rising of 1745 and oak trees were planted to commemorate marriages. The Rt. Hon. George Talbot Rice employed the eminent gardener, "Capability" Brown to improve the park. It is said that, after a fortnight, the gardener returned to the castle and said,

My lord, Nature has done so much for your park that it has left no room for improvement.

A section of the park was presented to the town to serve as an amenity this is known as Penlan Park, Newtown.

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